This is a sewing pattern and tutorial for a tunic-length hoodie finished with ribbing at the cuffs and hem.
The main body is made with knit fabric, and the cuffs and hem are decorated with rib knit, giving the hoodie a slightly relaxed and rounded silhouette.
The design has a cute and feminine look, making it suitable for everyday wear or comfortable loungewear.
Because this hoodie uses an open-end zipper and ribbing at the hem, the construction would normally require many steps. However, this pattern includes a simplified method that finishes the hem by sandwiching the rib between the layers, making the process much easier.
If you already understand how facings, rib knit, and open-end zippers work together, you may sew it using the standard method. If not, please use the simplified sandwich method for an easier finish.
Since this is a tunic-length hoodie, you will need a longer open-end zipper. Please check the pattern pieces before purchasing your zipper to confirm the required length. For Women’s M size, an 80 cm zipper is used after trimming it slightly.
After printing, please align and tape the joining lines, then cut out the pattern. Seam allowances are already included, so you can use the pieces as they are.
What are “Grainline” and “Cut on Fold”? Please refer to this page.
(1) Serge/overlock around the pocket, fold the pocket opening by about 0.4 inch (1 cm), and sew it with a sewing machine.
How to Serge/Overlock (regular sewing machine & overlock machine) Please refer to this page.
How to Sew Pockets Please refer to this page.
(2) Fold and press the pocket (except the part that will be tucked inside the Facing), shape it with an iron, and sew it to the pocket placement on the body.
(3) Sew the shoulders and sides of the front and back bodies together, then serge/overlock the seams.
(4) Sew the hood pieces together, serge/overlock the edges, and press the seam allowances to one side.
(5) Serge/overlock the front edge of the hood, fold it by about 0.4 inch (1 cm), and sew with a sewing machine.
(6) Apply interfacing to the Facing, sew the Facing pieces together, press seam allowances open, and serge/overlock the outer edge.
(7) Join the two hem ribs, press seam allowances open, and press along fold lines (1) to (3) in order to shape the rib.
*When folding along crease line (3), shift the front layer forward by about 1 mm to prevent the back layer from slipping when sewing.
*For details about shifting and folding, refer to: How to Sew Sleeves and Sleeve Cuffs
(8) Sandwich the hood and open zipper between the Facing and the body, and sew them together.
*At this step, be sure to leave about 1.6 inches (4 cm) of the zipper extending downward past the ribbing.
(9) Attach the hem rib while sandwiching the body hem and the zipper tape inside the rib.
(10) Sew the sleeve sides together, serge/overlock the seam allowances, and press them open.
How to Sew Sleeves and Sleeve Cuffs Please refer to this page.
(11) Sew the rib cuffs into a loop.
(12) Attach the rib cuffs to the sleeves while stretching to match, then serge/overlock the seam allowance.
(13) Sew the sleeves to the body using a sewing machine, and serge/overlock the armholes.
*This is a simplified method for installing an open-end zipper with a ribbed hem, different from the original method.
*If you are familiar with installing open-end zippers with ribbed hems, please use the conventional sewing method.
Free Paper Patterns are possible because of your support.
If you use our patterns, please share them on social media and tell your friends.
Your support helps DRCOS continue to provide patterns in the future.