How to sew Collar stand
How to sew Collar stand
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I can do simple collars with shawl collars and flat collars... but once the collar stand is attached, it suddenly becomes very difficult...
Many people shy away from it.
However, when making a nice shirt or a distinctive collar, etc, It is inevitably necessary how to attach the collar stand. I will explain it as clearly as possible with a large number of pictures.
There are various types of ways to attach the collar stand, but I have chosen this method because it is easier for me to do and more beautiful when completed.
Let's start with the materials,Prepare 2 collar stand and 1 fusible interlining
The fusible interlining is applied to one of the collar stands, which is the back side of the collar. This is the part that directly touches the neck. The front side is the side that touches the necktie.
Turn over the collar stand with the fusible interlining attached, align it with the collar attachment position, insert the collar into the collar stand, and move on to the sewing process.
Since the collar is folded back when the garment is worn, most people lose track of the front and back when sewing, and often make mistakes such as turning the collar inside out when they put it on and look at it, Please be careful not to make a mistake!
How to make the collar part? How to make a collar Please refer to here.
Fold the collar in half and make a notch mark by pointing a marking pin in the center. Fold the collar stand in half as well and make a notch mark with a marking pin.
Align the collar with the collar pinching position and stop the marking pin.
Fasten the center notch mark with a marking pin as well.
One point here! The photo above shows the completed "Collar stand" from the front, and the photo below shows it from the back.
The dotted red line is the key point. The seam is on the back side, so the front side looks very beautiful.
The accumulation of these parts makes a garment beautifully finished, so if you can afford it, be aware of the seams when making the garment.
When I was in sewing school, it was a hassle! but once you get used to it, the finished product will be different, so please try to remember the process of not revealing the seams.
The way to make the finished product beautiful is to shift the sewing by about 1mm when sewing. How to make a collar. Please refer to the detailed and easy-to-understand explanation here.
Shift the collar stand and fasten it in place, The red dotted line in the previous image is the only part to be shifted and fastened, The rest of the part that holds the collar in place should be fastened normally without shifting it.
When you are finished, sew it on with a sewing machine. The red dotted line in the photo should be 1cm open. Sew the first and last stitches firmly with a reverse stitch.
After sewing, Remove the baste at the collar alignment position using a thread remover.
Next, before turning the garment inside out, the seam allowance area of the tightest part of the curve should be treated.
You can either cut it in a jagged pattern, crossing it as shown in the photo, or you can cut away the seam allowance, leaving 2 mm at this point.
Turn it over and it looks like this.
Iron to stabilize the shape. The part of the sewing that was shifted at this time should go neatly to the reverse side, so that the seams are not visible.
Next, we will attach it to the body. First, attach notch marks to the center of the collar stand and the center of the neck of the body. Simply fold both in half and fasten a marking pin in the center.
Align the right side edge of the "collar stand" with the right side of the body as shown in the photo and fasten with a marking pin.
After the opposite end of the notch mark is also fastened, the entire piece is fastened with marking pins as shown in the photo.
After the marking pin is finished, sew with a seam allowance of 1 cm. Sew the first and last stitches with a reverse stitch.
When sewed together, it will look like the picture.
The seam allowance of the sewn area should be ironed down facing up.
Next, the backside portion of the edge of the photo.
Fold it in and let the corners settle before ironing it into shape.
You can iron this place where it is tucked into the body first, but if you want to hide the seam allowance nicely, ironing at this time will hide it more nicely.
Iron the shape to cover the seam.
When you have finished shaping, it is also recommended to cut off the overlapping or unnecessary areas at the seam allowance.
Align the corners tightly and fasten the marking pins while concealing the seam on the reverse side.
After finishing fastening the marking pins on the back side, fasten the collar on the front side with marking pins to prevent shifting, and the preparation is complete!
The back side looks like this.
Now we will start sewing from the center of the neck on the front side, but we will sew all the way around and come back to this part again, so the reverse stitch is only at the end.
Please be careful not to step on the marking pin on the reverse side with the sewing needle when sewing, and proceed with the sewing.
Finish with a Reverse stitch! When finished sewing, it will look like the picture above.
Finally, as with the collar, one more topstitch is beaten as shown in the photo to bring out the tension and add design! It is recommended to use this topstitch because it makes the "collar stand" stronger.
This completes the collar with a beautiful "collar stand" as shown in the photo, with no visible seams.
In the photo, the fabric color is changed for clarity and the threads are different colors, but usually the same fabric and the same color should be used for production.